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   Horst directing a fashion shoot with Lisa Fonssagrives (wife of Irving Penn), 1949. Photo by Roy Stevens

 Horst directing a fashion shoot with Lisa Fonssagrives (wife of Irving Penn), 1949. Photo by Roy Stevens

HORST AT THE V&A

September 13, 2014

Last week, the V&A Museum in London launched a retrospective of the work of the legendary photographer Horst P. Horst. (1906-99) In an extraordinary career spanning 60 years, his photographs appeared on the pages of Vogue and House & Garden under the singular byline; “Horst”. He was such a versatile and multifaceted photographer that there are 10 sections in this exhibit; Haute Couture, Surrealism, Stage & Screen, Travel Patterns From Nature, The Studio, Fashion In Color, Living In Style, Nudes and Platinum Prints. SO prolific was he, that even with 400 images in the exhibition, the curators say they could have easily produced five shows of the same size. Every one of his 94 Vogue covers is on view — but his work wasn’t only about fashion. He shot everything from male nudes (several of which have been lent by Elton John and David Furnish) to interior design and gardens, which he began to specialize in under the editorship of Diana Vreeland.

"Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again."  – Horst, 1984

Horst was part of an artistic, collaborative crowd that in turn fueled his work. He was friends with Schiaparelli and Dalí and the Surrealist movement inspired him to put his own creative spin on simplest jobs. Asked to make an image for a Vogue nail-polish story, for example, he arranged models and mannequins’s hands for a picture that transcends mere illustration. His fashion work represented an creative departure from what had come before, and he could be a source of frustration for editors who just wanted him to show the clothes. I’m very familiar with his photographs, having worked for Vogue, House & Garden and Vanity Fair (we hired him at VF when his third act was in full-swing in the mid 80s), but I’ll admit that the true scope of his career somewhat eluded me. Avedon & Penn are often thought of as THE two primary 20th century magazine photographers, but with this exhibit, Horst is nudging them over to secure a permanent place in the pantheon. The exhibition runs through January 4, 2015 at the V&A.

  Muriel Maxwell, Vogue, 1939 (Imagine. This is the year  Gone With the Wind  & T he Wizard of Oz  came out)

Muriel Maxwell, Vogue, 1939 (Imagine. This is the year Gone With the Wind & The Wizard of Oz came out)

  94 of Horst's  Vogue  covers are on display, like this one from 1941

94 of Horst's Vogue covers are on display, like this one from 1941

  Ask to shoot nail polish for a  Vogue  story, this surreal image is what Horst produced in 1941

Ask to shoot nail polish for a Vogue story, this surreal image is what Horst produced in 1941

  Salvador Dalí’s costumes for Leonid Massine’s ballet Bacchanale, 1939

Salvador Dalí’s costumes for Leonid Massine’s ballet Bacchanale, 1939

  Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939

Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939

  Marlene Dietrich, New York, 1942

Marlene Dietrich, New York, 1942

  Baroness Pauline de Rothschild at her apartment in Paris, 1969

Baroness Pauline de Rothschild at her apartment in Paris, 1969

  View of ruins at the palace of Persepolis, Persia, 1949

View of ruins at the palace of Persepolis, Persia, 1949

  Photographic Collage, about 1945

Photographic Collage, about 1945

  Round the Clock, New York, 1987

Round the Clock, New York, 1987

  Male Nude, 1952

Male Nude, 1952

  Dinner suit and headdress by Schiaparelli, 1947

Dinner suit and headdress by Schiaparelli, 1947

Tags: Horst, V&A, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, Horst P. Horst, photography, retrospective, Vogue, House & Garden, Vanity Fair, Diana Vreeland, Salvador Dali
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